A PILGRIM'S DIARY 3 than the frank publication of the actual diary of some pilgrim, to which all the would-be adventurous may obtain easy access. The setting-forth need not afterwards be that plunge in the dark which it is at present. A man may then calculate freely the time and means at his disposal, and make such provision as is possible to him, for the difficulties and perhaps the dangers of his undertaking. The one piece of advice that one would like to give all intending travellers is the importance of securing a good panda—as the semi-ecclesiastical courier is called—at the beginning of the Journey- We were lucky enough to fall in with Gopal Panda of Kedar Nath, when we were at Hardwar, and to take him with us, and no words can tell of his value. He was full of energy and resource. He saw "ULS through every difficulty, and his social influence smoothed over many delicate matters, probably. A panda should not be too scholarly, as in that case he is sure to be defective in energy ; yet his fund of local information is a great sweetener of the road. The first impression gleaned from the pilgrimage as a whole is a deepened sense of Indian unity. And this is created in us, not only by the crowds of wayfarers—from the Punjab, Maharashtra, Madras, Malabar, the North-West Provinces, and Bengal—— whom we meet or pass, hour after hour. It is also due to the fact that here on this northern pilgrimag-e, the great puJan4>rahmms and mohunts are ail Deccanis. Even the pandas, on the Badri Narayan